Cubed water

With the CCTV tower, the Egg and the Bird Nest, Beijing stock of architectural icons is significant and impressive.  Also an iconic figure of Beijing's cityscape, the Water Cube really tries hard to be more than just a boxed memory of a great year – the year when China became part of our conscious universe. (hint: 2008)

Like many other Olympic cities, Beijing prepared to cast an unforgettable show, and created a stock of facilities that were in themselves real architectural and engineering prowess's.

Designed by the Australian group PTW, the international engineering group Arup and the Chinese group CSCEC, the Water Cube - which housed the Olympic Pool - is a simple steel structure covered with translucent plastic panels. Their unusual shape, bulging out of the metal structure that frames the building, makes them good solar captors, allowing to save about 30% on heating, pretty much as much as if its roof would be covered in solar panels. From the inside, the ambiance is pleasant; a nice flow of light comes in, no matter if the polluted smog hovers around or not.
Exactly two years after the Olympics, the Water Cube started his new life as an aquatic park.

So during the peak of winter, at a period of the year auspiciously called Spring Festival!! - don't get me started about this - what can we do when it is a few degrees below zero outside without any snow, with some free time with the kids, knowing that most friends have escaped under more auspicious weather? Beat the climate, put on the bathing suits and get our feet in some warm water!  Water Cube, here we come!

First we packed a picnic to avoid some dreadful Chinese fast food (imagine pogo meat sticks of unknown source, sweet old popcorn, ramen noodles, super deep fried chicken bits - more batter than meat - and bad coffee).

We did fail at our first attempt. Going the day before the national holiday was supposedly not wise, the security staff told us.  The day before the national holiday is that important night you have to be home. (chinese logic is somewhat elusive to me at times). So we kept our lunches ready and headed there the following day, on the national holiday, not really knowing what to expect.

And we were happily surprised!!!
The main is space is taken by a fairly large beach-like pool with warm water, with a hourly set of waves, complete with typical Chinese animation (loud music, group hand clapping and door prizes). There are some kiddies pools and slides of appropriate scale, in colorful arrangements. Then towering these, for for the big kids, some crazy fast slides (me and Pauli each tried our own). There is also some very very impressive inner tubes rides, large than one could imagine possible. And on one side, around some very colorful fun slides and inner tubes cool rides, crowned by a large box constantly filled with water, periodically tipping over its content on the unsuspecting crowd. More inner tubes rides for various ages are colorfully organized under that area.  
Furthermore and more surprisingly, the water and the beach are relatively clean, lockers rooms in good order – after three years in China (among which we logged a canceled gym membership due to lack of cleanliness, an aborted hot spring romantic afternoon due to sanitation reasons, and several other tiptoeing exercises in random places), we admittedly were ready for worst.  Maybe this was due to the high entry fee? Indeed, 200 RMB is rather a steep price for working middle class Beijinger.

When we left, Noam said he did not have fun; he really wanted to do the large rides with his friend Ofek… Next year!!! But we were guarantied a good night of sleep, with all this splashing around!

Honey! I forgot the suitcase home!

We just realized that it has been three years already! Three years here, in Beijing, three years of discovery, and of learning. And continuing.
It just happened that this is a long weekend here in China, the "Golden week" (黄金周), a combination of a three-day holiday celebrating the creation of the country, and the reshuffling of the work-week, to end up with 7 consecutive days off, allowing many to return visit family in their villages.
We just did what the Chinese do, and headed to a village, Wuduhe, 100 inhabitants, near the Great Wall. (ponder on this number in comparison to what is called here a mid-sized city, with one or two millions inhabitants).
We are fortunate enough to have friends who found a courtyard house in the countryside. They are renting it with some friends, and for that special weeks, nobody was using it.
We packed up with electric blankets, warm night wear and thick comforters, since the nights are now more fresh (10 degrees), and the house not heated. We also took lots of food to barbecue. We sailed out of Beijing while the kids were napping in the back of the car, heavy with all the gear needed for 3 days out of the city.
It is always so nice to drive out to the countryside, and it lovely to arrive to the house, meet the owners, let the kids roam.
All was well until we realized that our suitcase full of our sleeping gear, diapers and toiletry was forgotten at home. After pondering a few long minutes about the possibility of driving back to Beijing to pick it up (for a 4-hours round trip), I opted to head out to the nearest town, on a mission, but skeptical about what I could find (PJs are easy, but contact lenses solution?) I first got into a typical street market to find regular Chinese pajama (think thick lined cotton) sold in a small shop directly on wooden tables.  I basically bought half the inventory of the lady, each piece for about 30 or 40 RMB each (someone was happy from our mindlessness at last!)

Fashionable Chinese winter PJs - (this picture was taken in Beijing). 
Then I drove out in direction of a more "modern" street, with small stores. Not only I easily found the diapers (don't forget, most kids are still using split pants here), I could choose one brand from another.  And then I left in search of an eyewear store (at this point without any notion of Mandarin it would be Mission Impossible). I drove away, turned at the indicated intersection. I was told I could not miss it. Indeed:  I found myself in front of an immense mall filled with latest fashion - something at par with Beijing's downtown shopping malls: all lights and adds on the outside, all loud music and expensive items inside.
It was an amazing discovery to drive from this tiny little village and found such a modern city, so near. I guess on our way to Wuduhe, we passed away from it, on the highway, giving us the sense that we are heading to a more isolated, more rural area than what it is.  In any cases, point made, our rural countryside house is kind of just beside a fairly large city (named Huairou), with all conveniences. So next time we run out of butter, we know where to go.
I entered the mall, searched the eyewear store, found one, bought the solution, walked out through the back door, where I discovered another set of 5 similar stores tucked away. It happens that this solution is not a rare commodity in this part of the country.
Thanks g-d.
I drove back and 20 minutes later, I entered Wuduhe village, trudging carefully along the narrow concrete road between a deep ditch and the villages houses' walls, whose inhabitants are already in the dark ready to sleep. I finally reached the house, tucked away at the end of the village, just beside the chestnut orchards. It was 7:00 PM, I felt I had moved in that amount of time 50 years back in time.
The kids put on their new super-duper chinese thick PJs, we tucked them in bed, and we sat back and toasted to the last 3 years of our life in a country that never cease to surprise us.

While Everything was Popping Around

As every year now, for Chinese New Year we took off to avoid the major party that takes over Beijing. Yeah, we love the sparkling, noisy, crowded experience of the city under the New Year frenzy - but after a bit of rest somewhere else. So while everything was popping around Beijing, we took off to warmer destination.
This year we courageously decided to get out of the usual beach holiday, and went on a small tour of South-East Asia in 12 days. Hanoi (Vietnam), Siem Reap (Cambodia) and Luang Prabang (Laos) with a few more days in Hanoi to complete our tour. We went with our great Israeli friends and their kids, which made the trip an even more memorable one.
Hanoi was a wonderful reconnection to an Asia I was looking for (and never found) when we were first landing in Beijing a few years ago : scooter and bicycle herds, pointy hats, street vendors, mess. With its little narrow houses that rise side by side along busy streets, development that seems to be going unplanned, it was surprising and lovely.  At the end of our tour we stayed with a couple of our friends, who introduced us to some of the best restaurants in town.








Siem Reap was wonderful for all the temples it has to offer. In the middle of the jungle, the city is there only because of them, and of the millions of tourists that come visit it. And still, there is a cool vibe to the markets and streets of the city. There is real magic, elegance and wealth of craftsmanship to these temples. Their splendor granted them a title as World Heritage Site by Unesco. Angkor Wat, the largest and richest of all, Angkor Thom, amazing with its massive smiling faces, Bayon, where the trees overtook the stone; were the major temples we visited, but we could have spent a week to visit the hundred other sites around the city. Noam and Noay loved playing Indiana Jones among the ruins. On our first night, I got my feet tickled by those little fish. One night we found a great French restaurant with hanging orchids all over the terrace, and great steak tartare (obviously not a local dish). We visited a floating village, toured a craftsman factory, the local museum and a museum to the war.







Luang Prabang was as wonderful, in a different way. An old colonial town set along the Mekong, it as beautiful as quaint. Listed as a Unesco Heritage city, it existence is mainly for tourist, but despite that it is vibrant and lovely. We took a tour on the river, hiked to a waterfall, and visited some local villages. We would have needed more time to enjoy all the little secrets of this city - and I hope to return.








For the curious ones, more photos can be found here...

Great Wallk

Sunday night, it rained a little. And Monday, we woke up to a wonderful, clear, blue, crisp air. With such beautiful sky, Sunday's ordeal was quickly forgotten. Truly schizophrenic changes in weather. Tuesday was as marvelous as Monday.  So I headed out with a group of French women to walk on the Great Wall, on the JinShanLing portion.

I recently joined the group Pékin Acceuil, a group of French and francophones who get together. What is really interesting is that they do not only meet for coffee or wine tasting (isn't that what would most people expect from a French expatriate, no?). In fact, they organize visits to art galleries, do aquafitness or hiking together, play bridge or mahjong, discuss chinese culture or paint, and countless other interesting activities. Myself, already busy here and there, happened to discover them late in my Beijing stay. With them, I am finding a source for new friendships (to possibly replace lost repatriated ones), and another way to jam thigh fill my schedule with taitai time. 

So, JinShanLing, we went. And for you readers, a few pictures in lieu of words. It is just easier for all of us (you and I included), as we were busy chatting away. 

A view from the top

Pauli's office is in the China World Trade Centre, phase two. More commonly known as Guo Mao (国贸), the CWTC is also two hotels, a large high-end (read too expensive) shopping mall, and now three tower. The new phase, the third tower,  has just recently been completed, and it also house a luxurious hotel. It is now the highest point in Beijing, with its 90 floors.
On a wonderful weather like today, we just headed up, reaching for the 88th floor of the hotel, in hope to catch a glimpse of Beijing while enjoying a fancy drink. With kids, and their (im)possible tantrums, we were sure that our attempt to a high life would be bound to some limitations. However the experienced proved itself to be quite pleasant, and their washrooms quite useful (and cosy as far as bathroom goes) to calm our initially screaming 3 year old. Of course a little bowl of peanuts also goes a long way too...


North view: Looking at the left bottom of the picture, arranged around a "central park", our compound, with its green and white buildings (our tower is the second from the left, hiding behind the third one). A bit further, the Workers' Stadium and in the background, the mountains (where the Great Wall portions are - can't see them, can't you?!).


A West view (with glare, sorry) over the first diplomatic area and Ritan Park, towards the Forbiden City and Tiananmen square, and the large Jiangomenwai/Changan avenue. In the distance we can also see the Egg (National Theater).


Looking South West, over Pauli's office (Guo Mao 2), over Jian Wai Soho and the Hyatt (who until now had the highest restaurant in town), with a sea of housing towers in the background.


And full South, more buildings buildings buildings... It takes a few to house everyone here...


And a little more East, towards the other portion of the CBD (Central Business District). Walt Mart is under one of the three grey towers on the right side, a bit behind the orange ones...


Looking North-East, where we saying there is lots of buildings around here? You can see the suburb somewhere in the distance.


And there you go, just over the "pants" of Mr Koolhaus!


A great ambiance...


My mothley crew and I enjoying the setting.

Those Pretty Mountains - Part Two : Yangshuo

January 1st, to start the year, we left Guilin by car to Yangshuo, a little locality upstream of the Li. It is set in a little piece of flat land nested between numerous karst peaks. This image found on Wikipedia really shows it best how Yangshuo is  physical setting.

So far Yanshuo is probably the smallest locality I have been since in China - only 300,000 inhabitants! It is mainly a backpacker town, with tourists coming to bike, hike or climb the karsts, or to drift on the small bamboo rafts.
Of course going in the middle of the winter is not the best. The temperature, even if about 15 degrees warmer than Beijing, remains cold and the humidity (and lack of heating in most buildings) makes it a bit uncomfortable. And the rain is intermittent, not preventing us from going around, but certainly a deterrent to any kind of physical activity, specially with the kids.
We checked in our little inn, basic comfort but cool. After discovered the Wii in the lounge, we headed down on the river for a little ride on a bamboo raft.
Despite the cold and the drizzling rain, there was something very peaceful about riding on the water, with the scenery changing fluidly between small peaks, as they appeared out of the mist in front of us, reflected in the moving waters.

An inspired 20 Yuan note...
We landed on the city dock, and started the exploration of Yangshuo.


an old man and his cormoran trained for fishing















In the evening, we went to see a show called "Impression on Sanjie Liu". It is an huge event taking place near Yangshuo, in natural stage with the river as stage and several peeks as backdrop. Directed by Zhang Yimou (who did Hero, Raise the red lantern, Olympics 2008), about 600 actors play on and along the Li river. Despite the rain and the cold, the show really was magic, the beautiful music, dresses and lightshow gave us the feeling of being in the middle of a fairytale.