Thursday, February 2, 2012

Cubed water

With the CCTV tower, the Egg and the Bird Nest, Beijing stock of architectural icons is significant and impressive.  Also an iconic figure of Beijing's cityscape, the Water Cube really tries hard to be more than just a boxed memory of a great year – the year when China became part of our conscious universe. (hint: 2008)
Like many other Olympic cities, Beijing prepared to cast an unforgettable show, and created a stock of facilities that were in themselves real architectural and engineering prowess's.
Designed by the Australian group PTW, the international engineering group Arup and the Chinese group CSCEC, the Water Cube - which housed the Olympic Pool - is a simple steel structure covered with translucent plastic panels. Their unusual shape, bulging out of the metal structure that frames the building, makes them good solar captors, allowing to save about 30% on heating, pretty much as much as if its roof would be covered in solar panels. From the inside, the ambiance is pleasant; a nice flow of light comes in, no matter if the polluted smog hovers around or not.
Exactly two years after the Olympics, the Water Cube started his new life as an aquatic park.

So during the peak of winter, at a period of the year auspiciously called Spring Festival!! - don't get me started about this - what can we do when it is a few degrees below zero outside without any snow, with some free time with the kids, knowing that most friends have escaped under more auspicious weather? Beat the climate, put on the bathing suits and get our feet in some warm water!  Water Cube, here we come!
First we packed a picnic to avoid some dreadful Chinese fast food (imagine pogo meat sticks of unknown source, sweet old popcorn, ramen noodles, super deep fried chicken bits - more batter than meat - and bad coffee).
We did fail at our first attempt. Going the day before the national holiday was supposedly not wise, the security staff told us.  The day before the national holiday is that important night you have to be home. (chinese logic is somewhat elusive to me at times). So we kept our lunches ready and headed there the following day, on the national holiday, not really knowing what to expect.
And we were happily surprised!!!
The main is space is taken by a fairly large beach-like pool with warm water, with a hourly set of waves, complete with typical Chinese animation (loud music, group hand clapping and door prizes). There are some kiddies pools and slides of appropriate scale, in colorful arrangements. Then towering these, for for the big kids, some crazy fast slides (me and Pauli each tried our own). There is also some very very impressive inner tubes rides, large than one could imagine possible. And on one side, around some very colorful fun slides and inner tubes cool rides, crowned by a large box constantly filled with water, periodically tipping over its content on the unsuspecting crowd. More inner tubes rides for various ages are colorfully organized under that area.  
Furthermore and more surprisingly, the water and the beach are relatively clean, lockers rooms in good order – after three years in China (among which we logged a canceled gym membership due to lack of cleanliness, an aborted hot spring romantic afternoon due to sanitation reasons, and several other tiptoeing exercises in random places), we admittedly were ready for worst.  Maybe this was due to the high entry fee? Indeed, 200 RMB is rather a steep price for working middle class Beijinger.
When we left, Noam said he did not have fun; he really wanted to do the large rides with his friend Ofek… Next year!!! But we were guarantied a good night of sleep, with all this splashing around!







Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Dragon us away!

Here is a beautiful dragon that Yameng, my sweet chinese friend and former teacher-assistant sent me.

Yes, it is a first for our family! For this Chinese New Year, we have not joined the mass exodus, but rather stayed in Beijing.
In fact, this is the time of the largest migration on earth - the entire country moves east to west, south to north, north to west; most people return to their villages, migrant workers leaving their construction sites, ayis leaving families they care for, waiters and service people taking a pause, store owners closing shops. Regular life takes a halt - everyone hops on an overcrowded train, and goes home.
Well, it should be that simple. This year again, buying the train ticket was like playing lotto: tickets are made available 10 days before departure. Now imagine the entire country trying to board trains to arrive home (wherever it is in the country) at the same time. In the past years, people have started lining up as early as midnight to get a ticket in the morning. Now this year, they started allowing online booking and phone booking... 14 days in advance. Which means that those who needed it most - the migrants, illiterate and without a computer - could hardly get a ticket when the ticket office opened 4 days later.
All this is important stuff for these people. Celebrating the new lunar year in family is a major event, but it is also the only real holiday most workers get in the year. For several of them, it means going to see their child, whom they had to leave with the grand-parents, as schooling  in the city is too expensive for children of migrant workers. What a hardship! I cannot imagine been away from my kids for a few weeks, even less a full year!!!
So this year, for our lovely Ayi, we felt generous. As we were not able to let her go for her usual 2 weeks  (the official holidays are 3 days, and most workers will work over the previous and following weekends to make up a full 7 consecutive days off-work, but her and others are often able to negotiate a longer break). She is from Anhui, a southern province, a long journey home. To help her maximize her stay, we offered her a round-trip plane ticket (shh! it is a secret - other ayis should not know, some might get jealous!). I even took her to the airport; as it was her first-ever plane ride, a little coaching ensured a smooth departure.  Here she is ready to go!

For us expatriates, Chinese New Year means something different. Oh! What promises we heard: noise and chaos, impossibility to sleep at night due to the number of loud bangs from the fireworks, no stores opened, no restaurants, no local travels due to lack of tickets or crowded destinations, overcrowded temple fairs, blablabla. But despite the bad omen, we stayed on. And ...  in retrospect (even if it is not completely over - the fiesta lasting well over 2 weeks!), these days in Beijing have been simply fa-bu-lous! yes yes, FA-BU-LOUS!! What a bliss!!!
First, for a whole week and half, there is NO traffic!!! just that is absolutely amazing. Then, as there is not much happening, everywhere we went, it was just low key, no crowd, no stress.  And having the kids with us at home, without our work schedule interfering, was nice: no suitcases to pack, just the regular small chores (lunches, laundry) but yet the feeling that we were all there for each other, together... And then, furthermore, work-wise, everything is kind of slow, so even if there is work for some, it is usually not too stressful.

And the best of all, for me, is the fact that we got a personal firework by our place every night. The first night was interesting: it started out in a crescendo - small and sporadic, coming from a few directions around us, sometimes in the street just below our place. Then as midnight approached, it came from everywhere, from behind every building I could see from our windows, from down in our street and from across the stadium and form further away, and it was popping all over and went completely wild when midnight rang. It was truly beautiful, loud and magic. Yet, my three men were sleeping like princes waiting in vain for their princesses. And even if I went to wake up mon petit prince Noam to let him watch this magic scene (I like to play the princess), he could not care less, and just wanted to get back in bed. So I ended up sitting by myself in the TV room, sipping some wine while gazing at this urban orgasm of lights, toasting the new dragon in town.