(Vicariously) Enjoying Beijing

As I mentioned in my previous post, this flu prevented me to do much more than lying down waiting for the fever and the cough to go away. So entertaining Tami, who is visiting from Israel, was beyond my capacity. 

But like a big girl, she enjoyed discovering Beijing and its treasures. She visited the big ones: the Great Wall and the Forbidden City. She toured some well preserved hutong area in pedicab, and strolled around the Houhai lake. Pauli took her to some of our favorite hutong, NanGoluxian Hutong, and to the Beihai Lake park. And fortunately, by the end of the week, I was able to introduce her to some of my favorite market shopping (Wal Mart and wet market), where we both dug out some of the most unusual food products. The culmination of her stay was reached at the Silk Market, where both her and Pauli emptied several stalls (making the businessman really happy). 

So I am cheating here and posting for you a small compendium of her own great photos. Maybe some of you will find this inspiring to come and visit us.   

The First Snow

My landing in Beijing has been on my back due to a terrible flu. But what best weather when you are bed ridden than soft falling snow! Cozy in bed, with a super-healing Chinese ginger soup, I really enjoyed looking at the soft flakes flying around my window and quietly landing onto the garden below. 

The city has grown quieter, people not daring going out with "such weather". With less than two centimeter precipitations, my Canadian blood smiles at the fuss about such minimal quantities! Highways have been closed Wednesday night until Thursday afternoon, flights were delayed. However school remained open. (Does it says something about the importance the Chinese attribute to education or to the no-worry go-merry attitude they have about child rearing?)

Of course in a city where snow comes once or twice a year, snow removal equipment is lacking. In my compound, the workers were pushing the snow around with broomsticks! You can see some more photos here on this blog about snow removal, Chinese style. Very cute. 
During that time, Tami who is visiting us from Israel, enjoyed the Great Wall by herself (quite a rare feat here in populous China!!)

It is important to mention that since our arrival in Beijing 4 months ago, no drop of water has fallen from the sky. No rain, not even the idea of a rainy cloud. Dry. Beijing is dry dry dry. My hands and my skins have been suffering. But of course that is nothing compare to the pains peasants have this year. In fact, the Chinese government has even started called this dry spell the worst drought of the last 50 years. So in a Chinese way, large scale measures had to be taken. After of 110 days of no rain, the Beijing Meteorological Bureau took measures to seed the clouds and harvest rain! They informed us that they launched in the night of Wednesday to Thursday a number of sticks of silver iodine to make the snow fall thicker, and also some kind of special plane. Here is a portion of their report: 

By 5 pm yesterday, 12 silver iodide rockets had been launched into the skies of Beijing's suburban Pinggu, Miyun and Changping districts.
The local air force had also dispatched a transport plane to release 400 liters of liquid nitrogen in northern Beijing, an official statement said.
Twenty-one rocket launch bases in the city and 25 ground precipitation enhancement facilities in the mountains of eight districts were used to seed the clouds, it added.
Zhang said these actions could increase rainfall by 10 to 15 percent.
The precipitation enhancement involved at least 200 people.

Of course when it is question to assess the impact on the environment, as usual, there is little concern shown. Maybe one day someone will ask the question about the impact of all these climatic manipulations. For now, the official answer is "Mei Wenti!", No problems! For now, as usual, la fin justifie les moyens! 

While in Bâli... Pardon Paris!!!

The Chinese have this uncanny way to change every proper noun into something that sounds very different. So for all of the Chinese I knew, I was in Bâli last week, when in fact, you all know that I was in Paris! 

My meetings went well, better than anticipated, in fact. It was a great occasion to meet friends after such a long time, and also to wander in the city enjoying its beauty and splendour. Here is a collection of a few pictures to give you an idea. 

Terminal 什么?

Currently flying above Novosibirsk (go figure where this is!) l am now more relaxed. But a few hours ago I was running around like a headless chick between terminals. I am not sure how this happened. I reconfirmed online the flight, I even checked twice the printed copy of my ticket. Flying Air France, I had assumed (silly me) that we would be taking off from the new international terminal, Terminal 3, the dragon. I was even planning to take a few more photos for you. 

While standing in front of the departure board unable to locate my flight, my stomac squeezed. Where is my flight??? Did I make a mistake and it is tomorrow? Or did I missed it? I was told flatly that I should go to Terminal 2, but that I might miss my flight since both terminal are not near each other. The whole process of changing terminal was as follow: rushing to the elevator already full with people and doors closing and shoving myself into the passengers, going down all the way to the taxi level, while still in the elevator, convincing an airport agent to run with me to direct my taxi driver (at this point I could not garanty any Chinese language skills), marathon running to the front of the taxi line, highjacking the next available one and repeating kuai, kuai kuai wo hen wan (quick quick quick I am really late!) while he zigzagued his way to the highway, screaming in unisson with the driver to the lazy and slow toll clerk to open the toll gate, and ejecting myself out of the car for a last dash, fearing that the information lady misguided me and that I would have to return to Terminal 3. Fortunately, I made it, maybe one of the last one to check in, but I made it. Wow! I could not afford missing this flight, my appointment with the legal and dental experts is a non negotiable date. 

Later talking to the flights attendants about my experience, they invoqued the bad Sino-French relationship. Now I imagine, writting about this might even get my blog censored. Heck, most of you guys are mostly out of China, so here you go!

Prior the Olympics, France indicated the possibility of boycotting the opening ceremony, in light of the human right and the Tibet situations. Since, both countries relationships have deteriorated themselves. In December, President Sarkozy pushed things further by meeting with the D*alai L*ama just prior to the EU meeting. The Chinese Premier eventually intently avoided France in his recent European tour, visiting everybody else but the French.

On the Chinese side, since the Olympics, several measures have been taken to make the French uncomfortable in China. For exemple, French nationals personal shipments are subjects to stringent regulations, beyond ours, Canadians, Israeli or Americans. The Chinese have been encouraged to boycott French products in a patriotic gesture.

And most likely there are other measures that I am unaware of.

So the fact that Air France was never transfered to the new International Terminal 3, unlike all other international major carriers, is probably another "punishment" by the Chinese government. China, 20 years after its opening to the world, still uses its old tools to obtain "respect" from West, blackmailing, punishing or slapping the fingers of those who dare criticizing its actions. Like a fat spoiled child convinced his way is the only one good, and using screams, tantrums or bullying to get his ways. Quite amazing in today's world, quite amazing at this scale. But even more amazing is the fact that nobody else in the world stands up and says something. Probably economics are more powerful than anything, since China is the factory of the world.

But even if the French "stood up" to China,  it is short lived, as last Sunday the ex-French PM Rafarin arrived in Beijing "to repair sour Sino-French ties", as stated by the China Daily. Supposedly France would have realized the urgency to improve its ties with China amid the global economic crisisl, quoting the Chinese expert in European Studies Wang Zhaohui.  Again the CPC (China Communist Party) is playing the all mighty, turning into puppets everything that comes near it.

A Big Night of Fireworks

Yesterday night was the last and ultimate night of the Chinese New Year celebration, the Lantern Festival. Read plenty fireworks. If I imagined that the noise we heard every other night since our return was disruptive, yesterday made me review my views. Ever tried to fall asleep to the constant distant banging of fireworks, with the optional ones just right in front of our building? Noam was. Pauli too. I guess I am just like the princess and the pea, can't sleep with that! 

It all started around five o'clock in the afternoon. At first onset of artillery, I rushed from one end of the appartment to the other, calling Naom and Lili Ayi to watch the lights just below our windows.  Their frequency increased until seven o'clock, where it was just happening everywhere. From our 14th floor window, you could see Beijing sky lighting up in spots behind buildings, alongside with a constant banging background noise.

A few hours Noam was tired and went to bed with his usual "wave music" a little bit louder, covering some of the outside noise. Probably around 8 PM me and Pauli both went out on our balcony, admiring the overall effects of fireworks coming simultaneously from all sides, then I just grew annoyed by the noise. Supposedly there are some regulations in Beijing about the types of fireworks permitted, but I doubt anything was enforced, as the lights were easily rising above some 100 meters-high buildings. There would also be a law limiting fireworks launching prior to midnight, else imprisonment, but at four in the morning I woke up to some sporadic bangs.

What a shock to me this morning when I witnessed from my taxi window the blackened Mandarin Hotel. We live 3 blocks away (read 20 minutes walk) from the internationally known CCTV complex, the towers internationally famous Dutch OMA/Koolhaas office designed for the Chinese Public Television Network. From our livingroom and bedroom windows, we can see behind a forest of skyscrapers the top of its most important structure, commonly knicknamed here by the taxi drivers as the "Trousers", due to its unique upside-down U shape. Beside it lies another interesting building, also part of the CCTV complex , in the shape of an immense folded corrugated metal sheet, shielding a 300 room luxury hotel, the Mandarin Hotel, and a 1500-seats theatre for CCTV. The structure is also nicknamed the "Termite Nest". It was Pauli's favorite, a unique and odd shape, and a somewhat mysterious but strong image.

Yesterday, amist the big party, one firecracker would have landed on the roof of the hotel building, destroying it completely. The hotel was nearing completion, with an official opening targeted for May 2009. A very sad day for the team of architects and builders who worked intensely at it for about 7 years.

Here is what I have been able to gather: the fire started around 8:20 PM, and it took over 30 minutes for the crew of firefighters to show up. A first crew went up into the building, but had to turn around as the fire was too intense. They tried to spray in vain from their high ladder but the top of the 157 meter high building was out of reach. One fireman lost is life in the blaze while 6 other persons were injured. It is only several hours after the onset of the blaze, that the fire was controlled and extinguished.

The building burned like a vulgar crumpled paper ball. Flames engulfed it completely, leaving behind a metal carbonized skeleton, blowing in fumes a portion of its 157$ million value.

The fire spread with such force that one can wonder if the building was constructed to fire standards. But since it was still under construction, its sprinklers systems were not functioning, and some of its building components were not yet properly installed, creating a fertile ground for the flames to spread. 

CCTV since has offered official apologies (and this is no small feat in China, to have a public organization to do so) for its responsibility. In fact a group of CCTV employees hired a firework crew to "impress" the general public, and set fireworks in the centre of the complex. They indeed put a great show! The fireworks used where illegal, of a strength similar to those used during the Olympics. Probably it was some of those we witness from our balcony earlier in the evening. 

Most amazingly the "Chinese Big Brother" even with such event, tried to "control" its image. A notice was sent to all media websites saying as follow:  
To all websites: Report related to the Fire in the CCTV new building, please only use Xinhua news report. No photo, no video clip, no in-depth report; the news should be put on news area only, close the comment posts, don’t top the forum blogpost, don’t recommend posts related with the subject.

So no front pages, no major reporting from any Chinese agencies. And less than 12 hours (!!) after the event, no more information could be found on the Chinese media. Even CCTV, who's own headquarters were burning, did not even had more than a few lines about it. Ironical for a State Television! How can something so newsworthy, so difficult to hide can be given the silence treatment?

But at last in the street the citizens were there taking pictures, filming and later blogging about it. We live in the era of information, and as one foreign journalist stated it: Can Paper Wrap Fire? 

Here are a few links from Reuters, a slide show from NY Times, some comments and images published by The Shanghaiist. Le Monde also published something later this week. 

Beating Beijing Blues

Returning from a green, lush and sunny island to Beijing is not a simple thing. Waking up to a view of sad greys from our 14th floor windows; concrete, buildings, sky, even the garden below. Layers are put back on, even if the winter has lost some of its bite now. Massive food shopping is an obligation, in order to stock up our empty fridges (note the plural here, since we have two). And resumption of the 中文课 (Zhong Wen Ke), Chinese lessons, where I concluded that my "tuned ears" were lost in less than 2 weeks. Read: from slightly uncomfortable to increasingly unpleasant. Beijing Blues are on.

To beat the blues, strong measure are to be taken: 

First: hang out with cool friends. REPEAT.

Second: go to the Blue Zoo.

Third: shuffle your furniture around, put new images on your walls.

Fourth: enjoy vicariously the party while it still goes on. 

Indeed, (and I did not expect it), fireworks are still lit all over town, making Beijing sound like a Beirut under attack (or maybe Gaza to be more d'actualité). Off course, it is even more fun when neighbours light them up right below our windows, notwithstanding the noise. Read my friend's Paige account of the whole affair here.  

Bali Bali

Here is a collection of our best moments. It was as promised: amazingly pleasant, charming people with amazing smiles, a culture filled with soft and flowery rituals, a temple-sprinkled island that charmed us like so many other tourists. Noam led our days, choosing to stroll around the grassy patch or to splash the frogs with pool water. Bali is a wanderlust island, covered in jungle forest, moss and tropical plants, everywhere. Hindu temples are sprinkled everywhere, sometimes in people's yard, most times they are gathered in compounds, while across the street other compounds are also having altars, offerings and statues. I particularly like the aesthetics of the temple gates; the sharp volcanic stone, intricately carved with fauna, flora and divinities, is like a large decorated column cut in half, with each of the halves spread apart to allow the passage of the believers. As if the deity had allowed for the stone to be cut apart to facilitate its access for the devotee. And rituals are filling the days of the Balinese, while flowers and offerings are scattered everywhere, in front of doors, on pathways, in front of stores. Maybe that closeness to their gods as paid off with providing them with the most amazing smiles and an extreme kindness, and a lush and beautiful earth.

We have been touched, and we would have like to stay longer. 

Here is a visual summary of our trip:

While we were away, a surprise!

Noam has now a new cousin: Theo is born on February 1st in Dubai, 7 pounds, the cutest little eskimo look you can find! Yana has now a new doll to play with, and Julie and Alex sont aux anges... We can't wait to meet him!