Black out

Today CNN, BBC and TV5 were partially blacked out today. Initially I thought it was again the receiver who was acting up. Or Emmanuel who played with the remote again, messing up the system...
In fact, today is a big day for Chinese human rights activists: Liu Xiaobo, a Chinese dissident, has won the 2010 Nobel Peace Price. He was a leader in the 1989 Tiananmen protests, and has also co-authored the Charter 08, calling for multi-party democratic system and human rights respect in China. The later has ended him up in jail for a sentence of 11 years, which he started on December 2009.

From our perspective, here from our Beijing expatriate's cushy couch, it is just a black out on our screens. But in some other Chinese's humble dwellings, it might eventually cast some light to the current darkness.
Years of unrestrained propaganda and the Cultural Revolution's ordeal have left the Chinese society with deep scars, and the leaders with rather harsh reflexes. The late 80's, culminating with the Tiananmen massacre of 1989, have left somewhat murkier waters for anybody attempting to demand democracy,  human right respect, or simple change. Of course we were entertained by the more recent, flashy but composed, facade presented for the Olympics; fascinating and exalting it was! Everybody wants to believe in a better China, a more humane one.
How appropriate! I just finished the reading of Beijing Coma, from Ma Jian. It relates the memories of a medicine student who participated in the Tiananmen events. Dai Wei, the protagonist, got wounded by a bullet in the head, and remains in coma since.  It took 10 years for Ma Jian to write, and through the Dai Wei recollection of his own life, it recreates a pretty accurate tableau of the changes undergone by the Chinese society over the last 40 years, from a youth in the cultural revolution until today's economic race for success of his fellow students. Of course, the moments leading to the 89's events are vividly described.  Evidently, the book is banned in China, and its author, exiled for over 20 years now. If you are interested, this NY Times review gives you a more detailed overview of the story line.

However, the insistence of Ma Jian to tell Tiananmen story in details, and to recount the further oppression of its former participants, can be paralleled by Liu Xiaobo's own insistence on demanding human rights respect and democracy in the country. Despite the jail sentences following 1989, warnings and continuous repression, Liu continued incessantly to call for democratic reforms. The Charter 08 he co-authored, following the model of the anti-Soviet Charter 77 prepared by Czechoslovakia dissidents, has left the Parti leaders concerned enough to justify another jail sentence of 11 years, under the charges of "inciting subversion to the state power". I am somewhat surprised by the amplitude of their reaction, as only 350 intellectuals and human activists signed the petition. (What percentage of the Chinese population is this??)  At least 70 of the original 303 signatories have been summoned or interrogated at some point. Censorship runs fast and high when the word democracy is repeated a few times on a single piece of paper... 
Like Liu Xiaobo, Ma Jian believes in the power of analogies and dates. Ma Jian published his novel  right before the Olympics, and one year before the 20th anniversary of the Tiananmen massacre. The Charter 08 was published on December 10 2008, the day of the 60th anniversary of the UN resolution adopting the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.
However, Ma Jian, unlike Liu, does not believes in change so much. Ma Jian, in the preface to the Chinese edition of his book, argues that not only Dai Wei is comatose, but it is the Chinese people who truly are. "Only memory can help people regain the brightness of freedom" he argues. Let's hope that the nomination of Liu Xiaobo will help send an electroshock of light and energy to the Chinese youth, calling them to remember the values fought for by some of their fellows citizens. And encourage them to also request democracy and change.

Today, Liu Xiaobo probably does not know he won the prize; the Chinese government is trying hard to censor and discredit the information.  Despite censorship of the news, and of the control of the use of Liu's characters on emails and cell phones, the Chinese youth is still able to share and spread the information.  Internationally, China also reacted by saying it is wrong to give the prize to a convicted criminal, and warns Norway of possible damages to their political relations. (We have heard this threat before). Despite all this Chinese unease, this Nobel prize appears like a warning by the Western world to China, a statement telling them that despite their smoking mirrors and noisy rhetoric, someone is watching, aware of the violations taking place. And that China's attempt at joining the big leaders of the world also means responsibilities, along some of the West's rules...

But of course, from my couch, the screen is black...

My Son is an Alien...

Here in China, our status of foreigner puts us in a special situation. In practical terms, apart from some inconveniences, it is not really a problem. Of course, we sometimes feel as if we are circus animals, with so many people watching us doing mundane things. Other times we feel just a bit different, as they do things with such obscure logic.  And then, we know we are being monitored (to various degrees probably depending on our profession and background). (Today's post is not so much about monitoring or censorship, but you can refer to these earlier posts here or there...)  We need to report to the police when we come in the country (I blogged about this here), and our elevator is plastered with indications on what each Alien must do upon landing in the country, to report. This is where we learn that we are officially labeled as such (rather than the more friendly term of "foreigner").
I really just can't get used to the word Alien. It really tells about our place here, as if we are always going to be looked at with some distance, with curiosity, interest or bewilderment. In some ways, the terms also evokes some possible risks. Looking back at China's history, not so long ago foreigners were limited to live in a few official hotels and apartments during their stays. And Chinese were officially encouraged to limit their contacts with Aliens (read here about early eighties' general state of mind towards Aliens ). And in a not so much more distant past, China was completely closed to the exterior world. Of course a huge amount of things have changed since the beginning of the Economic Reform, but it should not be a great surprise if some terminology in usage today still transpire the historical past of the country.
I could maybe start some kind of chinese archeological linguistic research here... 
And then when Emmanuel was born, we of course also had to register to him, and get him an official Chinese Diplomat ID (yes he is starting his career a bit young). And then I understood that despite all good intentions, their perception of us might be, well, hum, different...

Poor Emmanuel, he is fine now.

Living on the Edge

As our ears have buzzed quite a bit from the Swine Flu media reports, and you may have understood how seriously China is tackling the situation here. Mexicans have been quarantined, and repatriated by their own government. Some Canadians and a few Americans also have been given a "special treatment" despite showing no symptoms.
Since our return from Hong Kong, we have been dealing with the implementation of various measures to prevent the spread of the disease. Since last week, when dropping Noam at the kindergarten I can no longer enter in the school building. His teachers welcome him in the outdoor play area, while his temperature is measured before letting him in. At the hospital, any person walking in has his temperature taken. In the airport, when we returned from Hong Kong, detectors were taking readings of every passengers while they were heading to the customs desk, and questionnaires had to be filled. And while enjoying our last day in Hong Kong, the day after Asia Case No 1 was found in Hong Kong, we saw the visible aspects of the Flu Scare. We were fortunate enough to have landed in the right hotel, avoiding a forced quarantine for residents who happened to stay in the hotel where the first Asian case lodged for one night. White masks started appearing around us, and by our departure time, the entire staff at the hotel (and many people on the streets) were wearing them. Hong Kong remembered SARS. China decided to take measures to prevent the spread of the disease, China way.

Whether we agree or not with their methods, or whether or not we really can talk about a pandemic is not for me to say (even if I have my own opinion). However, yesterday Pauli came home after being more than a week out of the country on business, and I had my own Mini-Swine-Scare. He called me as he just had landed in Beijing Capital Airport. He told me (with what I perceived as a white voice) that he was not sure of what was going on... The entire flight was held by the airport, with all passengers in the cabin, after their temperature had been taken and questionnaires had been filled. While waiting in the idle plane, filled with other passengers, no information was given to them. And there I was, at the other end of the phone, fearing the worst: that they could be quarantined, that he would have to stay away from us, in Beijing! Detained. Hostages of a paranoid government (oops, I said it!).
Fortunately, after an hour or so, he called me back to tell me they just had been "released", after a few men dressed in white space suits came in and took away one passenger - probably someone who had fever. Pffew! My Pauli got to come home!

So now we are awaiting the visit of Pauli's parents, on Friday, landing from Israel (another country touched by the Flu)... 

Spring is here!

Over the last couple weeks, the weather as turned from fresh (around 2-3 degrees in the night, 8 in the days) to warm (25 degrees yesterday!). What a nice change! I have been a little doubtful, as the last warm spell we had did not last. Indeed, mid-March brought us a long weekend of spring-like weather, only to turn again to cold wind and automnal weather. But now, it feels real. The trees have blossomed, flowers are budding, the wind is warm, it feels good.
So Saturday, we set out to catch the spring. Beijing, with its concrete and greyness, does not always feel as the best place to witness the delicate action of nature. We headed to XiangShang, Frangrant Hills.
With only 20 km out of Beijing, we expected a few Beijingers to be there, as it is tradition for them to go enjoy the nature. A traffic jam at the highway exit got us worried that the crowd would outdo the landscape, but once there, we were free to enjoy the park.
The entrances of the park are lined with small shops, restaurants, teahouses and eateries, complete with loud music blasting for every stall (off course each of them listening to their own selection!). Families are slowly strolling to the park, arriving by buses that are well deserving the area.

The park itself is a pleasantly arranged at the bottom of the hill, with a few lakes, various species of trees, picnic areas and pleasant paths. Of course, a few temples and a museum are also part of the scenery. A cable car can help the crowds reach the top of the hill. We chose to stroll around the bottom of the hill and to lay and smell the fresh grass while Noam was napping in his stroller.


Xiangshang dates from the Jin dynasty, with the original temple built in 1186. In the Yuan and Ming dynasty the hills were used are Imperial hunting grounds. In the Qing dynasty (1711-1799) the emperor initiated a large scale construction, leading to 28 scenic spots and a wall to keep the deers he imported from Manchuria, as most game was hunted by previous emperors. Today, after been ransacked by the French and the English at the beginning of century, the park is a mix of replicas, restorations, and foundations of the structures that have grace the park over the last 800 years.

Today, no longer privilege of the emperor and its suite, Beijingers come in numbers to enjoy the natural beauty of the park.

The highlight of our visit was the Biyunsi, the Azure Cloud temple, a beautiful set of constructions, part temple, part shrine, part exhibit to the history of Sun-Yet-sen.








And of course, a surprise that is not one: we are being watched the whole time!

Terminal 什么?

Currently flying above Novosibirsk (go figure where this is!) l am now more relaxed. But a few hours ago I was running around like a headless chick between terminals. I am not sure how this happened. I reconfirmed online the flight, I even checked twice the printed copy of my ticket. Flying Air France, I had assumed (silly me) that we would be taking off from the new international terminal, Terminal 3, the dragon. I was even planning to take a few more photos for you. 

While standing in front of the departure board unable to locate my flight, my stomac squeezed. Where is my flight??? Did I make a mistake and it is tomorrow? Or did I missed it? I was told flatly that I should go to Terminal 2, but that I might miss my flight since both terminal are not near each other. The whole process of changing terminal was as follow: rushing to the elevator already full with people and doors closing and shoving myself into the passengers, going down all the way to the taxi level, while still in the elevator, convincing an airport agent to run with me to direct my taxi driver (at this point I could not garanty any Chinese language skills), marathon running to the front of the taxi line, highjacking the next available one and repeating kuai, kuai kuai wo hen wan (quick quick quick I am really late!) while he zigzagued his way to the highway, screaming in unisson with the driver to the lazy and slow toll clerk to open the toll gate, and ejecting myself out of the car for a last dash, fearing that the information lady misguided me and that I would have to return to Terminal 3. Fortunately, I made it, maybe one of the last one to check in, but I made it. Wow! I could not afford missing this flight, my appointment with the legal and dental experts is a non negotiable date. 

Later talking to the flights attendants about my experience, they invoqued the bad Sino-French relationship. Now I imagine, writting about this might even get my blog censored. Heck, most of you guys are mostly out of China, so here you go!

Prior the Olympics, France indicated the possibility of boycotting the opening ceremony, in light of the human right and the Tibet situations. Since, both countries relationships have deteriorated themselves. In December, President Sarkozy pushed things further by meeting with the D*alai L*ama just prior to the EU meeting. The Chinese Premier eventually intently avoided France in his recent European tour, visiting everybody else but the French.

On the Chinese side, since the Olympics, several measures have been taken to make the French uncomfortable in China. For exemple, French nationals personal shipments are subjects to stringent regulations, beyond ours, Canadians, Israeli or Americans. The Chinese have been encouraged to boycott French products in a patriotic gesture.

And most likely there are other measures that I am unaware of.

So the fact that Air France was never transfered to the new International Terminal 3, unlike all other international major carriers, is probably another "punishment" by the Chinese government. China, 20 years after its opening to the world, still uses its old tools to obtain "respect" from West, blackmailing, punishing or slapping the fingers of those who dare criticizing its actions. Like a fat spoiled child convinced his way is the only one good, and using screams, tantrums or bullying to get his ways. Quite amazing in today's world, quite amazing at this scale. But even more amazing is the fact that nobody else in the world stands up and says something. Probably economics are more powerful than anything, since China is the factory of the world.

But even if the French "stood up" to China,  it is short lived, as last Sunday the ex-French PM Rafarin arrived in Beijing "to repair sour Sino-French ties", as stated by the China Daily. Supposedly France would have realized the urgency to improve its ties with China amid the global economic crisisl, quoting the Chinese expert in European Studies Wang Zhaohui.  Again the CPC (China Communist Party) is playing the all mighty, turning into puppets everything that comes near it.

Ooops!! I am under surveillance!

In the mist of my (now less) frantic unpacking, I took a pause today and to update my blog (and you). But for some reasons, the web page was not opening. I tried again and again. I check my internet connection, as I need to manually turn it on. All was good. My emails were coming in. Google page was turning on. Facebook too. Not my blog. Again and again, I would just get an error page. 

De The Eye is watching

For a moment I did not want to believe it. I doubt. No it can't be, they would not be watching me so closely? But after trying successfully to open my blog using some web tunnels (or web bridges),  I realize that yes, my blog is now officially blocked. Wow... 

I am quite dismayed by the idea! 

Did I say anything offensive? The only  - but really the only - controversial element I can think of since I started publishing is dealing with the pollution levels in Nanjing. For a brief two lines, I am making references to the situation, and refer to a published report that most people here in China do not have access. I cannot imagine anything else that I have published that could be offensive to China.

It says a lot. 

It tells me extent to which the information is controlled here. Sensitive information is not necessarily information that you and I would find offensive. But it is information that probably can give power to people. Or can show China under a bad eye. 

It tells me that with 1.321 290 billion people, they still manage to watch us one by one. (But maybe they watch foreigners more closely).

It tells me that they spend a great deal of their energy and money in saving appearances, and in control measures. 

It tells me that it might be extremely difficult for those who simply want to know the truth, to access factual information, and to be sure of what they are reading. 

It tells me how strong China is. Even if it is not so pretty. 

So you probably wonder how come you can read this now; why I am still able to publish? In fact I spent the last couple hours trying various other web bridges and tunnels to try to publish again. In the end I have been able to work around the security controls with a complicated contraption, but unfortunately I am unable to share with you for obvious reasons. 

I am not an activist, a freedom fighter or an anarchist. I am just a woman hoping to share with you my experiences in this new place. And I am now under web surveillance!      ;-)