Monday, June 15, 2009

The Art of Diplomacy - A Chinese Perspective

Chinese Letters...

I just completed the reading of a very interesting book: "Lettres chinoises - Les diplomates chinois découvrent l'Europe (1866-1894)" by Feng Chen-Shrader [Chinese Letters - Chinese Diplomats Discover Europe (1866-1894)].


I found this book very enlightening.
In the second half of the Nineteenth Century, two years after the end of the Second Opium War, the Tianjin Treaty impose some diplomatic legations to Beijing. In 1866, for the first time in its history, China must send emissaries in Occident. At the time, it was perceived as a sign of submission. Furthermore, Europe, as a region ignoring confucean values, was perceived as barbarian. To become a diplomat was not a desirable position, and the mandates of the first Chinese diplomats was mostly limited to recording their observations of the European society.

Feng Chen-Shrader has studied and analysed the correspondence of these first diplomats mandated by the Middle Kingdom. The Europe they discover is told with a very different perspective and very different principles than those of the Europeans themselves. Their correspondence puts some historical perspectives on the cultural perception Chinese might have of us, and on some stereotypes that might still convey today despite the time that has elapsed since the writing of the diplomats letters.

For example, it is really interesting to read how the diplomats perceive the notion of democracy. The use of the Chinese language seems to add confusion to their comprehension of it, as if there would be no real appropriate word to describe this notion without putting some negative connotation to the concept. Moreover, the notion of a democratic Parliament headed by a Queen, such as in England, seems to be also creating some bewilderment. How can a Queen obey to the people? At the same time, the concept of a democracy headed by a monarch (as opposed to one that is entirely elected) leaves the Chinese diplomats more confident that such system could eventually be applied to China, since a system without a monarch does not seem to be feasible for them.

Also it is really interesting to read how these men were sent without much of a role except the one of observer, as if China did not want to involve itself in the diplomatic exercises played in Europe, by fear of showing a position of submission towards other countries. Because of that, the Chinese diplomats reported to their country in an almost anthropological way of Europe and its customs.

The book gives us many details of various elements surprising to the diplomats. For example, Paris night lights and wide streets, its sewers, as well as London's cleanliness, its public parks and its public buildings, its postal services and various other public services created to facilitate the life of the population were all pleasant discoveries. The notions of public welfare and public services never reached such extent in China, and the European city and its public services was perceived in such a positive way that most diplomats conveyed it back to their home country. By their descriptions, the diplomats give us an idea of the city in China, which at that time was still a maze of lanes, with not public services, no postal services, no public transport. In fact, it is also noted that Chinese cities were mostly administrative centres, where scholars families are not always inhabiting, and were a mostly rural population is still living. Furthermore, the divide between the Chinese city and the country side remained indistinct as the major commercial wealth of china is not of urban origin but of rural origin.



On other topics, the diplomats are also surprised by the women desire to adapt their wardrobe to fashion, by the notion of gallantry, by the foods and table manners, among other things. These are new concepts to them. Notions such as celibacy were new to the Chinese, as well as all the courtship predating a marriage were surprising to them. Furthermore the diplomats were surprised to see how much space is given socially to women, which is not even possible for a Chinese person to imagine. It creates genuinely complicated situations, such as when a Chinese diplomat asked to bring along his wife to a formal evening did so, and later was recalled to his country, as in China such exposure of a women is considered indecent.

One of the diplomats summarize his surprise to several aspects of London daily life: "In England, everything takes the exact opposite of what applies in China. In the political domain, the people goes before the monarch. For birth parents prefer having a girl rather than a son. A the dinner table, it is the host, and not the guest, who occupies the honour seat. The writing goes from left to write. To read a book, we start from the end and go the the first page. During a meal, dishes are put forward the wine. All this is explained by the fact that England is at the exact antipodes of China. The sky above this country is in fact under the earth. Its customs and traditions are completely the opposite of those we know in China."

Following the author's analysis, we get to understand that the Chinese have a important resistance to change, even more to change coming from abroad. Before the presence of the first diplomats, there was little credit given to Europe and its development. When they land in Europe, the diplomats see how much there is to be learned from Europe, on so many level. They are amazed by the existence of civilization other than the Middle Kingdom, and to see that it can no longer be considered barbaric. Their many attempts to understand Europe are limited by their political perspective by which they must affirm the Chinese pre-eminence. They bring everything back to a possible Chinese source or reference. It leads to some interesting comments.

For example, the concepts brought on by Christianity are compared to a Chinese philosopher, Mo Di, who encouraged simplicity and universal love, as well as the cult of Heaven before filial love. The reasoning here is that Christianity must be a simplistic version of the more ancient and profound Confucianism, another reason why European civilization must be indebted to the Chinese culture. Of course, little is discussed regarding the sacred character of the religion. In fine, the world, for the Chinese, seems to still be divided between orthodoxy (Confucianism) and heterodoxy (all foreign religions or ideas)...

Similarly, notions of democracy are discussed as originating from a specific period in the Chinese history, the Xia period, between XXI-XVI Century BC. At the period of the Three Dynasty, (XX to III Century BC) there is also mention of the Mencius Dogma, which says that the people must be placed before the emperor. This is what is similar to the regime holding in England and in Italy at the time of the diplomats. They are trying to reassure themselves with some kind of parental link with what they are seeing in Europe. Despite their analogies, these eras were some brief windows of democracy in China, long gone since, first eliminated by the Xin Dynasty with an totalitarian government (211-207 BC), and followed with various similar imperial or one-party models.

Finally somewhere in the book, the author brings on the comment of one diplomat, who acknowledge the time spent by the Chinese youth while trying to learn their language, studying and practicing calligraphy, while the occidental youth learns all sorts of practical knowledge to master completely a field of knowledge. This is not to say the Chinese are less intelligent, and that there is a need to feed an inferiority complex or orgueuil. This is said in reference to the development and the strenght (puissance) of Occident, and the refusal of the Chinese scholars to follow their exemple. The diplomat goes on saying that this attitude is really not worthy of a great country such as China. I have to admit that I smiled while reading this portion of the text - Oh! Do I find that the time spent on learning this language is endless!!!

To conclude this was a very interesting journey into the mind of the first Chinese diplomats, both discovering their political ideas and their representations, but also the European culture, which from their perspective can be indeed quite strange and fascinating.


Sunday, June 14, 2009

Goodbyes

My grandma passed away last Tuesday, after living a full life. 98 years of love.

Here is the eulogy I presented at her funerals. I spoke not only for myself but also on behalf of my brother and all my cousins.


Victorienne, Grand-Maman, Vic,

Adieu Vic, adieu Grand-Maman, un siècle s'envole avec vous. Tel le grand fleuve de votre nom, votre amour a coulé en nous, et continuera de suivre le flot de nos vies. Votre amour si grand, semé de sucre à la crème, de cipailles, de petits tricots, nous a enveloppé depuis notre enfance.

Comme votre cœur, votre maison a été ouverte à tous, elle fut un lieu de rassemblement et de célébrations. Nous, avec nos chants, sketches et petits récitals, voulions vous épater. En flashback : parties de cachettes au sous-sol, jardinage au soleil, armoires où il faisait plaisir de découvrir quelques trésors, réveil matinal et petit déjeuners au gruau, après-midis près de vous à tenter d’imiter votre main au pinceau…

Et ces pinceaux, ces tubes de peintures à l’huile. Vos toiles sont les ébauches de nos vies. Vous saviez voir en chacun de nous l’artiste et le peintre, vous saviez lire nos sensibilités. Vos encouragements nous ont poussés à nous dépasser. Vos murs n’étaient pas assez grands pour vos nombreux tableaux, les photos de nous tous, les souvenirs récoltés lors de vos pèlerinages. Chaque chose qui vous entourait était un peu comme votre cœur, mis de l’avant.

Grand-maman, les souvenirs foisonnent, les mots ne seront jamais assez justes pour vous remercier d’avoir tant donné.

Vous avez su nous inculquer un amour de la famille, un sens du travail bien fait, un respect de la nature, un mysticisme sincère, une philanthropie profondément humaine et généreuse. Vous nous avez offert le goût de la musique et de l’art, le sens du partage et de l’accueil vers l’autre. Vous nous avez passé le gène de la mère aimante, de l’artiste, de la bénévole, de la voyageuse. Vous avez semé en nous toutes ces beautés, toutes ces bontés.

Après tant de vie, après tant d’amour, vous étiez prête à partir depuis un moment, le nez tourné vers la mer, vers le large. Allez le retrouver, votre bonhomme, il a patienté assez longtemps ! Il vous attend pour une nouvelle partie de 500. On vous imagine déjà tous les deux mains dans la main, le sourire sur le cœur, comme à votre cinquantième. Pour votre centenaire.

J’ai entendu dire que « les larmes sont parfois une réponse inappropriée à la mort. Quand une vie a été vécue vraiment honnêtement, vraiment avec succès, ou simplement vraiment, la meilleure réponse à la ponctuation finale de la mort est un sourire. » (Julie Burchill)

Grand-maman, nos sourires resterons illuminés par votre mémoire.

On vous aime grand-maman !





Thursday, June 4, 2009

Breaking the Fire Wall




It has been over three months now that the Chinese government has censored a number of sites, namely Youtube (over a 3 minute video about Tibet). Recently more and more sites have been inaccessible from here, namely Blogger, Twitter, Flickr, even Hotmail (!). Even more recently there has been even censorship as we are approaching the remembrance date of
June 4 1989, when Tiennamen Square was the stage of terrible incidents. 
For the last few days, in fear of more problems in remembrance of the event, news are blacked out a few minutes at the time, when references are made about the event. Fortunately yesterday, our censor was probably gone to the loo when the headlines ran, as I was able to see 10 seconds about a photographer who witnessed the events. I have been struggling to access some of these articles, but fortunately found ways around the Great Fire Wall... Read on about the events here or there.
At least I am proud to see that the Obama administration is taking a stand, asking for some accountability about these events from the PRC.  Still today, the exact number of causalities is not known, and some major figures of the movement leading to the event have disappeared. Of course the Chinese response is the usual: Mind your own business. What eles?! Today, journalists were blocked access to the square, people were monitored and nobody could really be filming openly. Former dissidents were in house arrest or ask to leave Beijing, while others have been unable to even enter Hong Kong (where freedom of speech is supposed to be guarantied). In fact Hong Kong is the only place in China where the commemoration of the event is tolerated. Another journalist reported playing an intense cat and mouse chase to meet former dissidents. What a shame. 
I have asked one of my language teacher about the events, to see what he knew, and what he might be thinking. As a young 25 year old, he has no recollection of the events that occurred when he was 5, but indicated that his parents and also one of his university teacher talked about it. However, he might be a bit of an intellectual. Several youths today show limited awareness about the event, and even disbelief about what happened. Over 20 years of non-information, or misinformation and of general belief that the West is only trying to shame China has fructified.  

With so much censorship, there is a lot of frustration in the expat community. How can we live without Youtube? 
But there are ways around this. For example, my readings have taken me to the French Cultural Center. With the status of a "cultural club", it is luckily not subject to the same censorship as some other places in China. Some titles here are from censored authors in China, and yesterday I found some interesting readings about "mass brainwashing in China", which I hope to eventually share with you in a later (uncensored) post.

To complete today's post, with some unusual cyber-contortions, I am now able to resume my my usual blogging.  From here I would like to direct you to some of these new entries (those in blue are just recently published, those not yet underlined will be publish soon). There are some entries about my parents' visit in March, and numerous of our little discoveries and day-trips, and of our trip to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors. Then there is a trip to Chengdu, DaFo and Emi-Shan. There is also Pauli's parents visit, and some good moments with Noam. Finally there are a few other entries, one about Noam's artistic talent, some about some small unusual surprises, some random thoughts about this language, and finally sharing some thoughts on some of my readings.

Enjoy my freedom of speech!

Monday, June 1, 2009

Artists at heart

For Children's day, on Monday, Noam school was off. Me and my good friend Jodi planned to do something fun and different. 
After a memorable taxi ride, where Kai and Noam tried their voices signing accapella, while I tried my Chinese to orient the driver to some remote studio, we arrived in what appeared to be an island of tranquility and creativity. A large compound of artist studios surrounds an open courtyard, where in a corner a wine covered pergola shades a set of garden chairs and tables, and where good coffee is served. 
Karen, a fellow Canadian, and Dawu, a sweet Chinese artist, share their creative passion with kids, with their project called Beijing Color Studio.  Dawu takes on the role of creative director and help the little ones unleash their art onto a canvas, while Karen takes care of the logistics.

Kai and Noam were the first arrived. Dawu and Karen later that day hosted more than 20 other kids. Easels were set, white canevas were awaiting the budding artists. As Dawu spread some color on the canevas, Kai quickly picked up at it, spreading it and enjoying the feeling of the paint on his hands. As he softly explored the texture of the paint, the colour covered the white square, leading to a very interesting effect. 
Noam at the opposite, did not quite get into it right away. As paint touched his fingers, he started panicking, and repeatidly saying "mains" (hands in French), is own way to ask for me to clean his hands. We tried various tricks, brushes, splashes, and funny faces, but we did not really succeeded in getting him to enjoy the act of spreading color onto the canevas. Then at one unexpected moment, he started to use a big brush on the raised canevas, and for fifteen minutes, we saw the artist at work. 







Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Super Size

In a country like China, with the number of people living here, we can expect some things to be larger. For example, the train station where we left for Xian, the Beijing West Train station,  was BIG.

The new airport is MASSIVE (the world's biggest after Dubai's). 
(Thanks Mr Foster for the photos).

The streets are super LARGE

and the interchanges and overpasses are super HIGH and OVERSIZED.  

Maybe they expect them to be filled by people and cars in a few years?
At other times, I find myself in places where I am just truly surprise by the scale of things. The other day, I went to the bank to change a few dollars, at the branch of the China Merchant Bank, on Chaowai Street. Usually I go in our compound, where we have 3 tellers and no line up. In the Chaowai branch, the place was so large it felt like being in a bus terminal. There were lots of screens above our heads, telling us who they were serving. Numbers were constantly called to the cashiers, which were well over 30 in numbers. I pulled a number from the machine when I entered, and looked up. One hundred persons (or numbers) were in front of me. I sat in a chair, pulled my computer, and got ready to wait for a while.
I only got so far writing this post as I was probably in a fast lane for privilege foreigners changing currencies...

(The photo shows only half the waiting area.)

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Living on the Edge

As our ears have buzzed quite a bit from the Swine Flu media reports, and you may have understood how seriously China is tackling the situation here. Mexicans have been quarantined, and repatriated by their own government. Some Canadians and a few Americans also have been given a "special treatment" despite showing no symptoms.
Since our return from Hong Kong, we have been dealing with the implementation of various measures to prevent the spread of the disease. Since last week, when dropping Noam at the kindergarten I can no longer enter in the school building. His teachers welcome him in the outdoor play area, while his temperature is measured before letting him in. At the hospital, any person walking in has his temperature taken. In the airport, when we returned from Hong Kong, detectors were taking readings of every passengers while they were heading to the customs desk, and questionnaires had to be filled. And while enjoying our last day in Hong Kong, the day after Asia Case No 1 was found in Hong Kong, we saw the visible aspects of the Flu Scare. We were fortunate enough to have landed in the right hotel, avoiding a forced quarantine for residents who happened to stay in the
hotel where the first Asian case lodged for one night. White masks started appearing around us, and by our departure time, the entire staff at the hotel (and many people on the streets) were wearing them. Hong Kong remembered SARS. China decided to take measures to prevent the spread of the disease, China way.

Whether we agree or not with their methods, or whether or not we really can talk about a pandemic is not for me to say (even if I have my own opinion). However, yesterday Pauli came home after being more than a week out of the country on business, and I had my own Mini-Swine-Scare. He called me as he just had landed in Beijing Capital Airport. He told me (with what I perceived as a white voice) that he was not sure of what was going on... The entire flight was held by the airport, with all passengers in the cabin, after their temperature had been taken and questionnaires had been filled. While waiting in the idle plane, filled with other passengers, no information was given to them. And there I was, at the other end of the phone, fearing the worst: that they could be quarantined, that he would have to stay away from us, in Beijing! Detained. Hostages of a paranoid government (oops, I said it!).
Fortunately, after an hour or so, he called me back to tell me they just had been "released", after a few men dressed in white space suits came in and took away one passenger - probably someone who had fever. Pffew! My Pauli got to come home!

So now we are awaiting the visit of Pauli's parents, on Friday, landing from Israel (another country touched by the Flu)... 

Friday, May 1, 2009

Hong Kong Buzz

We headed to Hong Kong for a few days. It is May First in China, a long weekend, and Paul will be flying from here to go to a work training in Cambridge. And in the meantime, I could get some medical tests that cannot be done in Beijing (nothing to worry about). So Hong Kong, Here We Are! We landed with more than 3 hours of delay, and althougth I am not sure how this happened, our heads hit the pillows at 4 in the morning. Noam was a really good boy during the flight, thanks to Annie Brocoli. (For all those who vouched to have a TV free kid, please hear the plea of those who travel too late by plane).
Our hotel, the Regal, is quite central. Our first day was occupied with the appointment, so our exploration of the city was minimal. Even so, the buzz and the flavor of the city comes strongly to our senses. The narrow streets are filled with people, stores are crowded, signs are competing one another, food smells and emerging for numerous eateries and fancy restaurants. Narrow street trams are passing us and the green lights ticks to tell us it is ok to cross, its fast beat giving me the sense of a febrile city pulse, a city vibrant and lively. In comparison, Beijing feels so sleepy!



Day Two is spent traveling the city by tram, to the pleasure of Noam's eyes. We head to the Peak to get a view, walk around Hollywood Road in search of good antiques and some carpets. Later in the day we scout some store to find some deals on clothings, and some dim sums (various dumplings, a speciality of the city) in a local eatery. Here, as much the clothing is cheap, as much the food is expensive.