sometimes I wonder...

this could be the first of a series...

I still haven't figured what is the real use of such post...

My Son is an Alien...

Here in China, our status of foreigner puts us in a special situation. In practical terms, apart from some inconveniences, it is not really a problem. Of course, we sometimes feel as if we are circus animals, with so many people watching us doing mundane things. Other times we feel just a bit different, as they do things with such obscure logic.  And then, we know we are being monitored (to various degrees probably depending on our profession and background). (Today's post is not so much about monitoring or censorship, but you can refer to these earlier posts here or there...)  We need to report to the police when we come in the country (I blogged about this here), and our elevator is plastered with indications on what each Alien must do upon landing in the country, to report. This is where we learn that we are officially labeled as such (rather than the more friendly term of "foreigner").
I really just can't get used to the word Alien. It really tells about our place here, as if we are always going to be looked at with some distance, with curiosity, interest or bewilderment. In some ways, the terms also evokes some possible risks. Looking back at China's history, not so long ago foreigners were limited to live in a few official hotels and apartments during their stays. And Chinese were officially encouraged to limit their contacts with Aliens (read here about early eighties' general state of mind towards Aliens ). And in a not so much more distant past, China was completely closed to the exterior world. Of course a huge amount of things have changed since the beginning of the Economic Reform, but it should not be a great surprise if some terminology in usage today still transpire the historical past of the country.
I could maybe start some kind of chinese archeological linguistic research here... 
And then when Emmanuel was born, we of course also had to register to him, and get him an official Chinese Diplomat ID (yes he is starting his career a bit young). And then I understood that despite all good intentions, their perception of us might be, well, hum, different...

Poor Emmanuel, he is fine now.

While I was gone...

Dear friends and readers,
I have to admit of a great guilt towards you. I had promised I would write. And then I left you in the dark, busy with teachings and other projects. And even when the semester was over, I still did not come back towards you. You have certainly felt abandoned, with reasons... And despite good times, holidays, travels and other memorable moments since my last post, I did not write. Despite the guilt. Or maybe because of it.
A blog feels sometimes as easy to maintain as a potted flower. Just a bit of attention, a bit of water, and it will grow. But once you stop feeding the flower, it dries up and looses its petals, and then even if the plant is still alive, it takes time to burgeon again....
In other words, I guess I have been suffering from some writer's block.
While feeling blocked in front of the page means no single word written, it does not mean no thoughts... While I was "away", I collected ideas, pictures and words, and I will try my best now to catch up with you and share them...

I am still around, just busy

Family, Friends, Readers from all over...


I am still around and I have not forgotten you. But I am currently lecturing at the Beijing University of Civil Engineering and Architecture （北京建筑工程学院）and all my free time is now devoted to preparing my weekly conferences. I will be back online shortly, the semester will be over sometime in June.  I will be back soon...

Kids Love

With their "one kid only" allowance, the Chinese can't help longing for more and more "baby time". They completely go gaga for kids, specially the 外国的 "wayguo" ones, the forginer kids.  Their features, complexion, hair and eyes colors mesmerizing them, when it is not their "tricks". 

Since we are here, I have witness first hand how much they love kids. Of course, it has certainly something due to the one child policy.  But I think it goes beyond that. In general, Asia is a culture fascinated with kids stuff, and China is no different on the matter.

Since our arrival in Beijing, Noam was picked up countless amount of times by pure strangers. He was even extricated of his high chair in a restaurant, without any attempt to check if OK with the parents (us). In numerous places we have seen him being entertained by a group of staff, everyone leaving their tasks to play with him, to free our hands while we eat, for exemple. Strangers would follow us to take his picture, or ask us to pose with him. Other would give him candies, cookies or balloons. People would turn around and comment on him, on his hair or his smile. And they still do today. Here is a shot taken in Chengdu, where Noam is definitely the center of attention!

But the arrival of Emmanuel has shifted the center of attention away from Noam. It even shocked me when we just returned from Washington after the birth. "Hey, Ho! Look at the big kid too, you can see his big blue eyes too! He still needs your attention!"
If I stay standing still in a public place for a few minutes, with Emmanuel in my arms, it is a matter of a couple minutes for someone to approach us. Then, there is this very gentle clapping of the hands done while smiling and cooing at him, followed by a soft opening of the hands, palms open towards the sky. These hands are saying: "Come in my arms, baby!" Everyone does it, everyone loves doing it! Waiters at restaurants, clerks in stores, grandmas around the parks, young men in computer stores, even grumpy taxi drivers. It is funny. And Emmanuel enjoys jumping in new arms, he smiles and grins happily. I guess his enthusiasm might eventually wear off, as Noam's did, after countless strangers saying exactly the same things, touching and grabbing endlessly.
Indeed, Noam now is not only not interested, he hides behind my legs when strangers comes too close, and he resist most conversations people would want to start with him, mostly by doing some kind of high pitch squeal. I also have been over time dealing with it differently. At first, I was extremely reluctant to let Noam being picked up by a stranger. Dirty hands? Maybe. But not only. Certainly the frustration at times that I was not addressed by the stranger, or that my child was taken out of my sight (maybe not far but still)... At others, maybe the sense that we have just become a live walking show or zoo animals... Then one day I gave a yoga class to a couple of Beijing moms. One came with her mother, and each with her child. I gave my lessons, and midway, one child cried a bit and grandma picked him up. A few minutes later the other one started fussing and not his mom, but the other one bend down to take care of him. This little baby exchange enlightened me a bit on how flexible and sincere their care and love of the children are. (Of course we are not talking here about issues related to sex selection for their unique child...)  Since my arrival in Beijing, I have learned to relax and encourage Noam's interaction with the crowd. And with time, I came to appreciate the help and the good intentions, and even the attention (unless in Chinese tourists hangout).

So for Chinese New Year, Paul's office gathered all the staff, spouses and children. And within ten minutes, my hands were freed from Emmanuel, as he was carried away by a bunch of Paul's giggling and ecstatic co-workers. At some point I attempted to recuperate him before his nap, to feed him, unsuccessfully. He was a star, and as the perfect little baby, only smiled and cooed. 

A Quick Smile

Those Pretty Mountains - Part Two : Yangshuo

January 1st, to start the year, we left Guilin by car to Yangshuo, a little locality upstream of the Li. It is set in a little piece of flat land nested between numerous karst peaks. This image found on Wikipedia really shows it best how Yangshuo is  physical setting.

So far Yanshuo is probably the smallest locality I have been since in China - only 300,000 inhabitants! It is mainly a backpacker town, with tourists coming to bike, hike or climb the karsts, or to drift on the small bamboo rafts.
Of course going in the middle of the winter is not the best. The temperature, even if about 15 degrees warmer than Beijing, remains cold and the humidity (and lack of heating in most buildings) makes it a bit uncomfortable. And the rain is intermittent, not preventing us from going around, but certainly a deterrent to any kind of physical activity, specially with the kids.
We checked in our little inn, basic comfort but cool. After discovered the Wii in the lounge, we headed down on the river for a little ride on a bamboo raft.
Despite the cold and the drizzling rain, there was something very peaceful about riding on the water, with the scenery changing fluidly between small peaks, as they appeared out of the mist in front of us, reflected in the moving waters.

An inspired 20 Yuan note...
We landed on the city dock, and started the exploration of Yangshuo.


an old man and his cormoran trained for fishing















In the evening, we went to see a show called "Impression on Sanjie Liu". It is an huge event taking place near Yangshuo, in natural stage with the river as stage and several peeks as backdrop. Directed by Zhang Yimou (who did Hero, Raise the red lantern, Olympics 2008), about 600 actors play on and along the Li river. Despite the rain and the cold, the show really was magic, the beautiful music, dresses and lightshow gave us the feeling of being in the middle of a fairytale.